I decided to travel to Israel for the Christmas of 2022, mostly because I've got issues with my family and I needed to have an alternative Christmas away from all those stereotypes about being with your family, giving presents to each other etc. Normally I enjoy all that Christmassy stuff but this year I was blocked from seeing my kids, (long story, best I don't mention the details, I'm confident it will all get resolved eventually).
My plan was to stay 19-29 December and I created this itinerary, which also doubles as the index for this post:
- Two days in Tel-Aviv (Abraham Hostel)
- Two days in Nazareth, the home of Jesus, (Abraham hostel)
- Day trip to climb mount precipice in Nazareth
- Four days in Jerusalem (Cinema hostel) and spend Christmas day here during this time
- Day trip to the Masada and the dead sea
- Two days in Jordan on a group tour to visit Petra and an overnight stay in a Bedouin camp.
- Final two nights in Jerusalem (Hotel)
- Day trip to Bethlehem, crossing the West Bank into Palistine
Two days in Tel-Aviv
After being thoroughly searched and questioned by Air El Al staff (official airline of Israel), at Barcelona airport before take off, I managed to arrive in the one main Israeli airport and get through the famously rigourous customs, I took the train to Tel-Aviv as I chose to stay here first in order to climatise to my new surroundings, a wise choice so it later came to pass as it's pretty similar here to Barcelona or other Western beach cities like Miami or Lisbon. I decided to stay in hostels for the majority of this trip, something I hadn't done for over 20 years. I chose hostels because I heard Israel is not the cheapest place and I was traveling alone so it's an easier way to meet people, or at the very least to be around other people in order to not feel so alone.
Upon arriving at the reception desk to check-in, a polite ginger man walked across from the bar which was directly opposite the reception and offered me a shot of tequila. I politely declined as I'm not a fan of downing spirits and wasn't in the mood to try, I started to think oh dear what have I let myself in for coming here, will it be all parties and young people. My fears were rapidly quashed after he checked me into a four person dorm in which I was the only guest. After making my bed I unpacked some things and realised that it's probably going to be alright, my fear of sleeping in hostels can be extinguished, at least here, because it seemed nice, clean and pretty quiet, I even had some decent views overlooking the city.
I went for a walk around this huge hostel and quickly found the main room containing a bar, guest kitchen and stage for events, there was a live concert going with a group on stage playing African music, there were some stalls selling African clothes and items around the place, I grabbed an Israeli beer called Gold Star, quite a decent, Amber coloured hoppy beer and started to absorb my new surroundings.
Israel customs
African band in the hostel
After the beer I wandered out into the Tel-Aviv streets, my hostel was locked in a central part of town, even though it was late December it wasn't cold. I quickly found a frozen yogurt bar and offered one with fresh mango.
My first thoughts of this city was it reminded me of some city in America or Australia, modern and clean, but feels different to Europe. After the yogurt I continued down towards the beach, walking through some smaller back streets off the main road. I made it to the beach, it was 22:30h and people were still playing beach volleyball under the flood lights. I'm strolled along the beach before making back to my hostel via some different roads, I was shattered and fell into bed after a hot shower. Just as I turned the lights out and shut my eyes, about to drop off to sleep, the door pops open, someone is coming in. He shuffles around before finding a lamp to turn on next to the other bunk bed. He makes his bed and lays down, I manage to turn my head and give a passive hi to him. He apologizes for waking me up. I turn over and try to maintain the frustration, it's surprising how little things like that can be annoying, my eyes close and I drop off to sleep even with this guys lamp on.
I wake up fairly early and eager to check out the breakfast in the main hall and later that morning go on the free tour of Jaffa.
I drag on some clothes and head to the hall, I go straight to the coffee machine, I get a cappuccino and see the breakfast buffet, its mostly bread, fruit, humus, yogurt, cheese, hard boiled eggs, some salad, muesli and cereals, pretty decent. I select some food and begin eating, a lady is asking if anyone is interested in attending the free Jaffa tour today, I immediately sign up and arrange to meet the group at the reception in 30 minutes.
There's only me and another person waiting at the reception, the same lady takes us on a public bus to Jaffa, it's like another part of Tel-Aviv. When we arrive we see some people waiting under an old tower, the tour guide arrives and we proceed with the tour.
The guide walks us through some old markets towards some churches up a hill, he talks about old myths and biblical stories, he also talks about real historical stories for things that happened here for them to build these churches and mini town up this hill. The views are really nice once we make it to the top. After the tour I was fed up with being with a crowd and went out to explore somewhere to eat lunch, the guide recommended a few places, I managed to find a place he recommended, it was another humus type restaurant, I didn't mind. I ordered whatever they had and the food arrived, humus with salad, a raw onion to dip in the humus and pita bread, all warm and fresh.
Comedy t-shirts for tourists
I decided to walk back instead of getting the bus, I even went for a haircut in the smallest barbershop I ever went. That night I explored some of Tel-Aviv nightlife I found some music bars, clubs and of course Irish bars. The bars are big and have that American style to them. I ate a cheese pasty with some pomegranate juice and headed back to my bed, I knew the next morning would be stressful, I was going to take three buses to Nazareth and spend two days in the home town of Jesus.
I woke up eager to head out on my long journey, after having breakfast with a french guy who I shared my room with, my first challenge was to find out what buses to get and where. Google maps helped get to the bus station but then it couldn't help anymore. I ran around asking people where my bus was and no-one seemed to know, then I saw outside of the station some bus stops and tried there, I was correct but missed my bus, I didn't wait long for another bus heading north to take me.
I'll finish this later....
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